Having a dash cam is like having a silent, impartial witness with you on every drive. It’s your backup, your evidence, and your peace of mind all rolled into one compact device. But what happens when that witness falls asleep on the job? If you’ve discovered your What To Do If Dash Cam Is Not Loop Recording, you’ve hit a critical failure point that leaves you unprotected. Don’t panic. That’s a frustrating but often fixable problem, and we’re here to walk you through it, step by step.
At Dash Cam On, we’ve seen it all. This issue is one of the most common snags new and even experienced users run into. The good news? The solution is usually simple and doesn’t require a degree in electrical engineering. Let’s dive in and get your silent witness back on duty.
First, What Exactly Is Loop Recording?
Before we troubleshoot, let’s quickly get on the same page. How does loop recording work?
Think of your dash cam’s memory card like a short-form diary. Instead of buying a new diary every week, you just erase the oldest entry to make room for the newest one. Loop recording does exactly that. It records video in short segments, typically 1, 3, or 5 minutes long. When the SD card runs out of space, the dash cam automatically deletes the oldest, non-essential video file to make room for the new one. This ensures you’re always recording without ever having to manually clear the memory card. It’s the feature that makes a dash cam a true “set it and forget it” device.
When this feature fails, your camera will simply stop recording once the card is full, often displaying a “Card Full” or “Memory Error” message, leaving you completely exposed for the rest of your drive.
The Usual Suspects: Why Your Dash Cam Is Not Loop Recording
When a dash cam stops looping, the culprit is almost always related to the SD card or the files on it. Let’s break down the most common reasons.
The Number One Cause: A Full SD Card (But Not For The Reason You Think)
“But wait,” you say, “isn’t loop recording supposed to prevent the card from getting full?” Yes, but there’s a catch: locked files.
Every modern dash cam has a G-sensor (Gravity Sensor). This clever piece of tech detects sudden impacts, like a collision, harsh braking, or even hitting a nasty pothole. When the G-sensor is triggered, it automatically “locks” the current video file. A locked file is protected from the loop recording process—it cannot be overwritten. This is a fantastic feature because it preserves crucial evidence.
The problem arises when the G-sensor sensitivity is set too high.
- High Sensitivity: If your G-sensor is overly sensitive, it will lock files from everyday driving events like speed bumps, bumpy roads, or even closing your car door too hard.
- The Result: Over time, your SD card fills up with these locked, “emergency” files. Once the card is filled with protected clips, there are no “oldest” files left for the loop recording to overwrite. The recording stops.
The Wrong Tool for the Job: Your SD Card Itself
Not all SD cards are created equal. A dash cam is an incredibly demanding environment for a memory card; it’s constantly writing, rewriting, and operating in extreme temperatures.
- Speed Class and Type: You need a card that can handle the constant data stream. Look for a Class 10, U3, or V30 card. These ratings ensure the card has a fast enough write speed to keep up with high-resolution video without dropping frames or causing errors.
- Endurance is Key: Standard SD cards are designed for devices like digital cameras, where you write data once and access it occasionally. Dash cams need High Endurance cards. These are specifically built to withstand the constant cycle of writing and rewriting data, day in and day out. Using a standard card is a recipe for corruption and failure.
According to John Carter, an Automotive Technology Expert with over 15 years in the field, “People often buy the cheapest, largest capacity SD card they can find, and that’s their first mistake. For a dash cam, endurance rating is far more critical than raw capacity. A 64GB high-endurance card will be infinitely more reliable than a 256GB standard card.”
Hidden Gremlins: File Corruption or Settings Issues
Sometimes, the problem is less about hardware and more about software or simple settings.
- File System Corruption: Power surges, improper shutdowns (like yanking the power cord), or a failing card can lead to a corrupted file system. The dash cam can no longer read or write to the card properly, halting the loop recording process.
- Loop Recording is Off: It sounds simple, but it happens. The setting may have been accidentally turned off or reset after a firmware update. Always double-check the menu.
Your Step-by-Step Fix-It Guide: What to Do If Dash Cam Is Not Loop Recording
Ready to get your hands dirty? Follow these steps in order. In 99% of cases, one of these will solve your problem.
- Backup and Format the SD Card: This is the universal first step.
- Backup: Connect the SD card to your computer and save any important footage you want to keep. Remember, formatting will erase everything.
- Format in the Dash Cam: The most important part. Don’t format the card on your computer. Put the card back into your dash cam and use the “Format” option in the camera’s menu. This ensures the card is formatted with the exact file system and cluster size the camera requires for optimal performance. You should do this periodically—about once a month—as a part of regular dash cam maintenance.
- Adjust the G-Sensor Sensitivity:
- Navigate to your dash cam’s settings menu.
- Find the “G-Sensor” or “Gravity Sensor” setting.
- If it’s set to “High,” lower it to “Medium” or even “Low.” For most daily driving, “Low” is perfectly adequate to detect a real incident without triggering on every bump.
- Check Your Loop Recording Settings:
- While you’re in the menu, find the “Loop Recording” or “Cycle Recording” option.
- Ensure it is turned ON.
- Select a loop duration. We recommend 3 minutes. A 1-minute setting creates too many small files, while a 5 or 10-minute setting increases the risk of losing a larger chunk of footage if a file gets corrupted.
- Inspect and Verify Your SD Card:
- Is it a reputable brand (like SanDisk, Samsung, or Lexar)?
- Does it say “High Endurance”?
- Is it at least Class 10/U3?
- If you answered “no” to any of these, it’s time for an upgrade. Investing in a proper SD card is the single best thing you can do for your dash cam’s reliability. Check out our guide to the best SD cards for dash cams for our top picks.
- Update Your Firmware:
- Visit your dash cam manufacturer’s website.
- Check their support section for the latest firmware for your specific model.
- Download the update and follow the installation instructions carefully. Firmware updates often include bug fixes that can resolve issues like loop recording failures.
- Use the Correct Power Supply:
- Always use the original 12V power adapter and cable that came with your dash cam.
- Using a random USB port in your car or a low-quality phone charger may not provide stable power, leading to write errors and other unpredictable behavior.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Here are some quick answers to common questions we get about this issue.
How do I know if my dash cam is loop recording correctly?
The easiest way is to check the SD card’s contents on a computer after a few days of driving. You should see a list of video files that span roughly the capacity of the card. The timestamps should be recent. If you see very old files or the recording has stopped, there’s a problem. Many dash cams also have a recording indicator light or icon on the screen that should always be active while you’re driving.
Why does my dash cam say “SD Card Full” if loop recording is on?
This is the classic symptom of the problem we’ve been discussing. It means your card is filled with locked, protected files from an overactive G-sensor, and there is no more space to record new footage. The solution is to lower the G-sensor sensitivity and format the card.
Can I recover footage that was overwritten by loop recording?
Generally, no. Once a file is overwritten, the data is gone for good. This is why the G-sensor’s role in locking important files is so critical. If you witness an incident that doesn’t trigger the G-sensor, it’s a good practice to manually press the “emergency lock” button on your dash cam to protect the current file.
How often should I format my dash cam SD card?
As a best practice for performance and longevity, we recommend formatting your high-endurance SD card directly in the dash cam at least once a month. This clears out any fragmented data or potential file errors and ensures a clean slate for recording.
Could a faulty dash cam be the reason it’s not loop recording?
While less common, it is possible. If you have followed all the steps above—you’re using a brand new, high-quality endurance card, you’ve formatted it in the camera, checked all settings, and updated the firmware—and the problem persists, you may have a hardware issue with the dash cam itself. At that point, it’s time to contact the manufacturer’s support or consider a replacement.
Your Peace of Mind is Worth It
A dash cam that isn’t recording is just a decoration on your windshield. Taking a few minutes to ensure its core functions are working correctly is a small investment in your safety and financial security. The loop recording feature is the beating heart of your dash cam, and keeping it healthy is paramount.
By following this guide, you should be able to solve the mystery of what to do if dash cam is not loop recording. So go ahead, check your settings, format that card, and drive with the confidence that your silent witness is awake, alert, and always ready to have your back.